Privacy Notice: Our site uses cookies for advertising, analytics and to improve our sites and services. Some parties move to the right in places to avoid some of the harder pitches. Slesse NE Buttress (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). With good weather and relatively warm temperatures, the team skied up to the Mt Slesse area and camped, before attempting the line the next day. Sometimes, you get a break from the plants, and the trail looks like this. It is also famous for its huge Northeast Buttress. Note there is actually nothing on the sign, the only clue was that someone had scratched "Slesse" into the tree. This is the sign off of the main road pointing the way to the Parking Lot (this picture was taken in 1997). Slesse means “fang” in the native Halq̓eméylem language and the massive granite spike just north of the US/Canada border is very famous for the steep vertical relief. I had now climbed the Northeast Buttress of Slesse too many times in summer, but in winter I hoped that the climb would regain much of the mystique and formidable aura it had possessed in my younger years. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Mt. --Andy Rooney. Why Choose Vancouver Mountain Guides? You exit this climb on the other side of the mountain in the Slesse Creek Valley. Meanwhile, Jess Roskelley has collected several notable first ascents in Alaska, and he has completed hard climbs in Patagonia and Canada. My dad is a tough old man!”. They are already done, I'm just converting them to Summit Post's trip report format. Hiking info, trail maps, and 6 trip reports from Slesse Mountain (2,439 m) in the Cascades of British Columbia ... and continued up the trail to the propeller cairn which is the ending of the hiking trail before you have to climb … For ore information, including how to change your settings, see our. Northeast Buttress of Slesse - A Long Way Down, "Computers make it easier to do a lot of things, but most of the things they make it easier to do don't need to be done." With a grin, Jess says, “I watched my dad slow down a bit on the descent. When To Climb. With mountain bikes you can ride or walk up the road to the Mt Slesse Westside Trail. Thanks for the compliment - it's probably my fault, as I transferred a bunch of trip reports that I had previously done all in about a week to SummitPost - so they really couldn't feature them all. Ask a question. Father and son climbing teams are inherently strong and devoted, but the Roskelley father and son team is not your average climbing team. This is the crux pitch (5.9+) of the Northeast Buttress. We don’t have a paywall and you don’t have to be a member to access thousands of articles, photos and videos. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. There were several short moves on pitches along the route that could be considered a minor crux, but overall it was the sustained nature of the pitches that make it such a great route.”. Resources Sunset on the bivy ledge - I'm wearing every piece of clothing that I have (photo: D. Dunlop), This picture is taken after we had finished the rappels on Slesse - you still need to descent all the way to the valley floor and then walk 10 miles back to your vehicle (in our case a bike), Images The peak is best climbed in June - September months, but it can storm/snow even in the middle of summer, rain and fog cover being the most frequent reasons for aborted attempts. Slesse Mountain - 8002' - NE Buttress Class 5.8 August 2019. Each of the routes involves 20 to 28 guidebook pitches, and the descent alone is a Grade IV Alpine D+ climb. Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress Slesse Mountain Northeast Buttress near Chilliwack, BC Print page Email to a friend + to Wishlist I've done this Group trip Other Users. Perry Beckham, Greg Child and Joe Buszowski attempted the route in the early 1980s and dubbed the couloir between the Northeast Ridge and North Rib, the Heart of Darkness. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Kurt and I figured this was recently set up by someone not too happy to down climb this section but … Just a few days after Steven climbed Slesse via the standard route, Itai (my friend from Israel) and I went up to climb it via the classic NE buttress. (5). On December 9, 1956, Trans Canada Airlines Flight 810 slammed into the mountain, killing all 62 aboard. Slesse Mountain : SummitPost.org : Climbing, hiking, mountaineering. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. 12. The Climb Our plan was to climb Slesse over two days, bivying about ¾ of the way up the first day. While this is an incredible objective, an ambiance of dread hangs over Mount Slesse that has nothing to do with climbing. 18 Reviews of Slesse Memorial "It was about noon when I decided to head out. Mountain View Slesse Memorial Trail BC Canada - Hiking in British … But we can’t do it without you.Your support is critical for keeping our website free and delivering the most current news, the most in-depth stories and the best photography in the climbing world. Once Jess expressed interest, the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb in a long weekend. Very few routes climb … Leclerc had previously done all three routes, including ascents of the East Buttress Direct and Navigator Wall earlier this summer, the latter with his girlfriend, Brette Harrington, who then free-soloed the North Rib (5.9) of Slesse … Slesse in the North Cascades, VMG will safely and skillfully get you to the top and back down. Slesse Memorial Trail - BC Hiking. You will take 2 days to ascend and descend the route. By continuing to use our site, you agree to our cookies. It provides fine clean climbing with four different routes to the summit. Meanwhile, a party behind them got lost on the descent and spent the entire night looking for the trail back to their car. John Roskelley is the only American to win the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. It’s like we switched places. This only adds to the adventure! Problem is, it seems to arrive earlier and earlier these days. Consider things such as access and accommodation at the base of Slesse Peak, as well as the logistics of climbing to the summit. We were going to climb it via the bypass route, thereby eliminating the first 5 or 6 pitches, that by all accounts didn’t seem that “classic”. Check out what is happening on Mt. I know that my last post was about the same mountain, as if the only thing I climb is Slesse Mountain, but I promise that a story about my Patagonia trip is in the works. (This photo was taken from the Memorial Plaque on the east side of Slesse on a hike in 2006). The west face of the mountain towers 6,398 feet over Slesse Creek. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Ah, that "thrashed" feeling. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. This is a superb rock climb of moderate difficulty. Slesse, to remind everyone to plan thoroughly. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. Slesse memorial was in mind for a while. The route up the NE Buttress of Slesse Mountain (aka Mount Slesse). Slesse is deservedly a 50 classic in North America. By Jon Jonckers | At about 4 a.m. the next morning we were off and hiking by headlamp. 13. There are logistical problems to work through. Adam Wilkie, from Burnaby, his 19-year-old son Xander, and friend Liam Ball had been looking forward to climbing the northeast buttress of the Chilliwack area mountain for some time. ... climb on is the official equipment supplier for vmg. Activity. It was just a coincidence that Steven and I climbed it within just a few days of one another, despite both of us probably … Actually it's quite rewarding knowing you've given everything. Once Jess expressed interest, the duo hatched a plan to complete the climb in a long weekend. “Black Ice” was the stand in another solid year for Reel Rock. I've got more.... ....that hasn't received enough attention. Note the looming overhanging section. Slesse Mountain at 2375 metres (7800 ft.) high is a popular, exhilarating peak. The North East Buttress of Mt. For example, its west face drops over 1,950 m (6,398 ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3 km (2 mi). The line had only seen one winter ascent, in 1986 by Jim Nelson and Kit Lewis, and that ascent had required … 2500ft of stellar climbing! (2) Approximate line of 2017 free variation to the east face of Slesse. For example, its west face drops over 1,950m (6,398ft) to Slesse Creek in less than 3km (2mi). Technically well within the scope of many rock climbers ability (5.9). (1) Approximate line of Navigator Wall. A climber has shared a story of a summit gone wrong at Mt. Whether you have been dreaming of climbing in Squamish or a remote alpine route like the North East Buttress of Mt. So you either have to leave a vehicle there for shuttle or maybe leave mountain bikes stashed in the bush. Slesse Mountain, usually referred to as Mount Slesse, is a mountain just north of the US-Canada border, in the Cascade Mountains of British Columbia, near the town of Chilliwack.It is notable for its large, steep local relief. For vmg at 2375 metres ( 7600 ft. ) high is Mt you can ride or walk up first. The harder pitches etches the sky in a long weekend technically well within the scope many... The bush is all on trad gear me on a long weekend gneiss, diorite, and granite, relatively! Ice ” was the stand in another solid year for Reel rock get featured which was.! 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